Friday, 28 October 2011

Work In Progress


Dear customers,

Thank you for the tremendous support over the past year. In order to serve you better, we will be closed for an upgrade renovation from 7 to 27 Nov 2011. Normal business will be expected to resume on 28 Nov 2011. Do check back regularly for updates.

If you have a collection to be made within this period, please send us an email stating your full name and invoice number one day in advance. In the mean time, you may still contact us via our email (enquiries@dylanandson.com) or Facebook.

We apologize for any inconvenience caused.

Friday, 14 October 2011

Getting Waisted

Proportion is key. When Michaelangelo sculpted David, it was rumored that he made the torso a little bigger, so that it will appear to be in better proportion when people look up at the statue from below.
(On a side note, I thought that Greek-goddess-looking sculpture would look awesome if she's got the middle finger out instead LOL)

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. There is really no right or wrong in the world of aesthetics. However, there is a general consensus on what contributes to a pleasing visual. Proportion is one such attribute, and perhaps the most critical of all.

One of the very first things I learnt in fashion college was to draw fashion figures. We were taught that these figure drawings look more elegant when the legs are drawn longer. This applies to both the male and female physiques. We employ a system of drawing called "nine-heads" to guide us in achieving that desired silhouette. Since these drawings are the foundation to any collection, it is extremely important we present them well (and to score good grades, obviously).

The contrapposto - a typical 'perfect form' of a women's figure. In reality, a women's legs are never that long. But it looks pretty darn good if we can create an illusion of length.

What I would love to see more of is a redux of the classic, higher waisted trousers for men. Now, before you tie me to a tree and stone me to death for being an old-fashioned geek, I'm not saying that you should start wearing your trousers right at your naval (anatomically, your 'true' waist is where your belly button is). A 2.5" distance below the naval is a good place to start.

If you take a look around, most of the guys on the street are wearing their pants at the wrong level. There are pants cut specifically to be low-riding, though this is actually quite rare. Most of the guys just put their hands into the pockets and pull their pants down, making it appear low-waisted. What this does is bring the fullness of the hips down towards the thighs. Also, you'll end up with a dropped crotch. Not flattering.

Having a proper rise have several advantages -

First of all, it creates an illusion of length to your legs, like the fashion drawings we do. Admit it; most of us would kill to add a couple of inches to our height. Super low-waisted trousers make your torso appear longer than your legs, throwing the whole look off-balance and out of proportion. In other words, you look stumpy.

Secondly, if you're a suit wearer, it minimizes the chances of your shirt peeping through the jacket at the waist when it is button up.

Immaculate proportions (and sophisticated color co-ordination!): classic jacket body length, appropriate lapel width, high-rise trousers, minimal break on legs. Since the last button of any jacket is always left undone, their shirts will likely be exposed at the waist through the jacket if they were sporting low-riders.

Thirdly, it makes it easier to achieve this uber-cool tie-tuck at the waist :)


Lastly, higher-waisted trousers are not just for old-fashioned uncles above 50. This stigma has got to go. I don't know what I'll do to the next guy who tells me "Hey why are you wearing your pants so high? Like uncle man". Give his pants a well-deserved, balls-splitting yank upwards, perhaps.

If the dude on the right is old-fashioned, I don't want to be forward.

Friday, 7 October 2011

Ca$hmere

(nothing is written here because no words can do this amazing bunch of cloths justice)

Cashmere is one of the world's most luxurious wools, and it is certainly reflected in its pricing. To put it into perspective, a low percentage cashmere-blend sweater will be in the $250 region at mass retailers like Uniqlo, whose price point for similar non-cashmere products is around $50. If you've tried on some of these 5-10% cashmere-blend products, you'd agree that it has got a nice, supple and smooth handle. Suddenly, the regular cotton sweaters aren't so appealing anymore.

Now.

100%. Pure. Cashmere.

Tuesday, 4 October 2011

Comfort & Style

Campaign photoshoots and visual merchandising mannequins are excellent platforms for conveying styling suggestions. They provide a straight-forward, concise and lasting impression on the consumer's mind. It is an important tool for brands to project their kind of aesthetic, associating the label to a specific look they try to create. You'd never mistake a Jil Sander campaign for a Versace.

These shoots are no doubt beautiful to look at - it's virtually 'perfect'. Of course, when you pay a couple grand for a spread, you'd expect nothing short of perfection. Unhappily, things are never so perfect in reality (if only I can Photoshop away my receding hairline). What appears to work in the magazines often don't translate as seamlessly into real life. This is especially true in the actual fit of the clothes.

Jil Sander: 6-button, peak lapel double-breasted suit in royal blue with black buttons, ticket-pocket and a 28" waist.

First of all, those dudes are professional models. They are blessed with chiselled cheeks, measure 6'4" sans shoes, have washboard abs, piercing blue eyes, amazing hair and bronzed skin. They are paid to look good. They have the ability to make thrift-store clothes look like they're worth hundreds. Throw mud on them and they'll make it look like Hershey's. What works on them doesn't always work on regular guys like you and me :(

Secondly, photography is an instant. You only have to look great for that split second the camera clicks. Take a look at the picture below. It's a great picture - handsome model, perfect lighting, excellent color co-ordination on the summer outfit. What you might not notice is how insanely tight the suit is - the trousers is literally bursting at the seams. And it's a cotton suit, which will feel a lot more restricted in the same cut compared to wool ones. Therefore, unless it's a cotton-elastane blend, it's not gonna feel very comfortable if worn for an entire day. An uncomfortable man is hardly a stylish man.

Photo from GQ.

Now, take a look at the next two pictures below. Real men in real settings. Looking at them, only one word comes to mind - comfort. Granted, it's a linen and wool suit they're wearing, but the cut is so much more forgiving. It fits well and is easy on the eyes. One of the main reasons why those damned Italians always look so smashing in their suits is because they are so comfortable in them, it's like a second skin. They are as comfortable in a three-piece suit as you will be in your pajamas.

Photo from The Sartorialist.

Photo by Tommy Ton.

Perhaps this is one of the reasons why street-style photographers are all the rage for the past few years. It just feels more authentic and most people can relate to that.

Throughout the years, I have experimented on the lengths and widths of my clothes. I've been to both ends of the equation - super slim and baggy, cropped and extra-long. I've tried going as skinny as humanly possible and Yamamoto-esque roomy. I experiment, so that you don't have to. At the end of the day, I always go back to those clothes cut with a sensible, classic fit. I still love some of my more avant-garde and ultra-fitted pieces, but they have gradually become white elephants in my closet.

Classics will never go out of style. Tried, tested and proven.